Finally arrived in Le Puy-en-Velay, the starting point of our second Camino walk. We planned to walk for 21 days, starting at Le Puy-en Velay to Cahors.
The train journey from Darlington in the UK involved 4 trains and, surprisingly, we made all connections and arrived only 2 minutes late! We were pleased that we had arranged to spend 2 nights in Le Puy as it turned out to be a lovely town with lots of history. We took the opportunity to visit Notre Dame du Puy Cathedral and of course the statue of the Virgin Mary which sits on the top of the mountain overlooking the whole town.
Day 1: Le Puy-de-Velay to Saint Privat d’Allier (24km)
We were a little concerned about starting our Camino with a 24km walk but it ended up being a good way to get settled into our walking routine. There were a couple of challenging sections and not that many places to stop. Our accommodation was a Gite (cottage) and not that good but there were very few places to stay in the small village.
Day 2: St Privat d’Allier to Saugues (21km)
This day started with an extremely challenging section through Forrest but the ground was very rocky and we needed our walking poles to avoid falling/slipping. Once we were through the Forrest we then had a long ascent that went on for nearly 4km and was exhausting but the views were amazing and very satisfying to get to the top.
Our accommodation was a very traditional French hotel and we had a lovely big room. Dinner was included at the hotel and, as this region is famous for lentils, we of course had lentils for dinner and tried lentil beer which was actually much better than you would think.
Day 3: Saugues to La Claux (7.5km)
A shorter walk today due to the lack of accommodation between Saugues and Les Faux but it was probably good for recovery after 2 big days and the temperature had increased to a maximum of 30C. It was a nice, fairly flat, walk through farmland and conifer forests. Our accommodation for the night was a lovely renovated farmhouse and our hosts, Bridgette and Bernard, made us so welcome offering a welcome drink and a sangria with them at dinner. Dinner was cooked by Bridgette and they sat with us after dinner chatting (with the help of Google Translate). Interestingly we had to leave all our bags down in a storage area and they provided a tote bag for the things we needed in the room as they are trying to avoid bedbugs which are an issue in some of the other places to stay. A fabulous experience all round.
Day 4: La Claux to Les Faux (22km)
The walk today was definitely easier terrain crossing through dairy farms and forrests although the temperature was 30c and we didn’t have much shade at all during the last 5km. We were lucky at lunch time as we came across a great restaurant in the middle of nowhere that served delicious quiche, salad, bread and beer. We love that every meal is served with French bread. Dinner was included again at our accommodation and we ate it with a group of French walkers so it was a fun night.
Day 5: Les Faux to Aumont-Aubrac (22km)
After eating breakfast with all the other French walkers, we set off for the day a little earlier than usual as higher temperatures were forecast for later in the afternoon. It was still actually quite hot in places but also has quite a few forest areas with shade. Today was probably our best walk so far as our bodies had adjusted to walking so long and the terrain was easier than previous days with only a few climbs. Our hotel for the night was excellent and we had an amazing meal in the Mitchelin Star Restaurant (pate, beef tartar with the local speciality potato and cheese followed by a homemade Vienetta) and of course a bottle of French wine. In this region, the Aubrac Plateau, the local emblematic dish is Aligot (cheese blended into mashed potato) and dates back hundreds of years.
Day 6: Aumont-Aubrac to Nasbinals (27km)
Today was one of the longest and was necessary because of the lack of accommodation. It was actually not a difficult walk but I think 25km is my maximum to keep the walk enjoyable. We crossed the plateaux which was hot and would be wild and bleak in winter. The last 3-4kms were tough going but mostly because it was quite hot (30C) and very limited shade. Dinner was again included but this time it was in a restaurant in the centre of town and it turned out to be a lovely set meal again and a big cheeseboard.
Day 7: Aspinals to Saint Chely d’Aubrac (22km)
We actually thought todays walk was only 18km so the extra y4km took its toll on us both, particularly as Tony had been unwell during the night so was quite dehydrated. We were still crossing the plateau so there wasn't much shade for the first 9km but there was a nice breeze. We have seen so many cows since we started our walk but they had always been behind barbed wire fences so when we found we had to walk straight through a cow field I was worried. We got our sticks out just in case. The final 2-3km was a downhill rocky path which was hard going too but all in all a good walk and our hotel is really good.
Day 8: Saint Chely d’Aubrac to Saint Come-d’Olt (18km)
Todays walk was our favourite so far as the terrain was easier, lots of shade, and our bodies seem totally used to the hours of walking. A large proportion of the day was through lovely forrests and we seemed to be ascending the majority of the time. We arrived at our destination at 2pm so wandered around the lovely, fairyland village and had refreshments. Our accommodation for the night was a converted convent which was just lovely and once again dinner was included.
Day 9: Saint Come-d’Olt to Estaing (22km)
Today was another lovely walk with lots to look at, great scenery and the terrain was perfect. We had heard that the Friday market in a town called Espalion was well worth a visit and as it was only 8km along our planned route we made the good decision to stop and wander through all the local farmers stalls and have a coffee and a sandwich from a patisserie.
This region of France is absolutely beautiful and we both agreed that the villages/towns we have seen today are some of the most beautiful we have ever seen. As we walked into the town where we were staying we were amazed by the buildings and scenery.
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