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| The view from the Cathedral over the Old Town of Le Puy-en-Velay |
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| Lovely cobbled streets leading up to the Cathedral |
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| Cobbled streets of the Old Town |
Day 1: Le Puy-de-Velay to St Privat d’Allier (24km)
We were a little concerned about starting our Camino with a 24km walk but it ended up being a good way to get settled into our walking routine. The climb out of Le Puy was quite steep but we enjoyed great views as we climbed (and paused for air!) The landscape for the day was mostly rural. We walked through fields of green lentils which the region is famous for due to the fertile volcanic soil. The path then passed through the spruce forest of La Baraque, before a very steep descent into the small village of St Privat d’Allier where our accommodation was for the night.
We were staying in a Gîte (cottage), Le Gîte la Cabourne, which was not that good as it was more like a hostel but there were very few choices of places to stay in the small village.
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| The varied track we walked along on the first day |
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| St Privat d-Allier, where we stayed for the first night of walking |
Day 2: St Privat d’Allier to Saugues (21km)
This day started with an extremely challenging section through Spruce Forrest but the ground was very rocky and we needed our walking poles to avoid falling/slipping. Once we were through the Forrest we then had a long ascent that went on for nearly 4km and was exhausting but the views were amazing and very satisfying to get to the top. The path then descended through the valley, crossing over an iron bridge designed by Gustave Eiffel.
Our accommodation in Saugues, Logis Hotel la Terrasse, was a very traditional French hotel in the middle of town, and we had a lovely big room. Dinner was included at the hotel and, being the signature dish of the region, we of course had lentils for dinner and tried lentil beer which was actually much better than we thought it was going to be.
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| Monistrol d’Allier |
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| A typical french building with a typical French car (2CV) |
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| Monistrol d’Allier, one of the villages we walked through |
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| The path into Saugues |
Day 3: Saugues to La Claux (7.5km)
A shorter walk today due to the lack of accommodation between Saugues and Les Faux but it was probably good for recovery after 2 big days and the temperature had increased to a high of 30C. It was a nice, fairly flat, walk through farmland and conifer forests.
Our accommodation for the night was a lovely renovated farmhouse Chambres d’hotes, Saugues and our hosts, Brigitte and Bernard, made us so welcome offering a welcome drink and a sangria with them at dinner. Dinner was cooked by Brigitte and they sat with us after dinner chatting (with the help of Google Translate). A fabulous experience all round.
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| Beautiful landscapes and villages |
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| Our lovely renovated farmhouse accommodation for the night |
Day 4: La Claux to Les Faux (22km)
The walk today was definitely easier terrain crossing through dairy farms and forests although the temperature was 30c and we didn’t have much shade at all during the last 5km. We were lucky at lunch time as we came across a great restaurant in the middle of nowhere that served delicious quiche, salad, bread and beer. We love that every meal is served with French bread although by the end of the walk we may well have had enough. Dinner was included again at our accommodation and we were joined by a group of French walkers so it was a fun night.
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| Fabulous place for lunch, pretty much in the middle of nowhere. |
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| Timber everywhere! |
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| Wandering through pine forests |
Day 5: Les Faux to Aumont-Aubrac (22km)
After eating breakfast with all the other French walkers, we set off for the day a little earlier than usual as higher temperatures were forecast for later in the afternoon. It was still actually quite hot in places but also had quite a few forest areas with shade. Today was probably our best walk so far as our bodies had adjusted to walking so long and the terrain was easier than previous days with only a few climbs. Our hotel for the night was excellent, the Hotel Camillou, Aubrac and we had an amazing meal in the Mitchelin Star Restaurant (pate, beef tartar with the local speciality potato and cheese followed by a homemade Vienetta) and of course a bottle of French wine. In this region, the Aubrac Plateau, the famous local dish is Aligot (cheese blended into mashed potato) and dates back hundreds of years. It sounds quite normal but the texture and taste is not at all what we expected.
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| One of the typical ancient/medieval buildings that are everywhere |
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| The Camino track as we leave one of the villages |
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The Camino track changes regularly and this is one of the typical paths
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| Walking across the plains - bit rocky in places but not too bad |
Day 6: Aumont-Aubrac to Nasbinals (27km)
Today was one of the longest and was necessary because of the lack of accommodation. It was actually not a difficult walk but I think 25km is my maximum to keep the walk enjoyable. We crossed the plateaux which was hot and would be wild and bleak in winter. The last 3-4kms were tough going but mostly because it was quite hot (30C) and very limited shade.
Our hotel for the night was Hotel Le Bastide and dinner was again included but this time it was in a restaurant in the centre of town and not actually in the hotel but it turned out to be a lovely set meal again and a big cheeseboard. The cheeseboard was perhaps a little rich as Tony was quite ill during the night and probably won’t look at cheese in quite the same way ever again!
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| The Aubrac Plateau |
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| The cheeseboard (3rd course of the meal) that made Tony quite ill! |
Day 7: Aspinals to Saint Chély d’Aubrac (22km)
We actually thought todays walk was only 18km so the extra 4km took its toll on us both, particularly as Tony had been unwell during the night so was quite dehydrated. We were still crossing the plateau so there wasn't much shade for the first 9km but there was a nice breeze. We have seen so many cows since we started our walk but they had always been behind barbed wire fences so when we found we had to walk straight through a cow field I was worried. We got our sticks out just in case. The final 2-3km was a downhill rocky path which was hard going too but all in all a good walk and our hotel, Lois Hotel le Coudercous, was really good.
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| Fabulous refreshment stop just when we needed it |
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| St Chély d’Aubrac |
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| Ready to setoff again from our lovely hotel |
Day 8: Saint Chély d’Aubrac to Saint Côme-d’Olt (18km)
Todays walk was our favourite so far as the terrain was easier, lots of shade, and our bodies seem totally used to the hours of walking. A large proportion of the day was through lovely forrests and we seemed to be ascending the majority of the time. We arrived at our destination at 2pm so wandered around the lovely, fairyland village and had refreshments. Our accommodation for the night was a converted convent Convent de Malet which was lovely (basic but modern and clean) and once again dinner was included and served in the convent canteen.
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| The lovely quaint streets of Saint Côme-d’Olt |
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| The pretty, well preserved town, of Saint Cóme-d’Olt |
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| Beautiful street after beautiful street |
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| The Convent where we spent the night |
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| Looking back over the village as we set off |
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| Saint-Cóme-d’Olt |
Day 9: Saint Come-d’Olt to Estaing (22km)
Today was another lovely walk with lots to look at, great scenery and the terrain was perfect. We had heard that the Friday market in a town called Espalion was well worth a visit and as it was only 8km along our planned route we made the good decision to stop and wander through all the local farmers stalls and have a coffee and a sandwich from a patisserie.
This region of France is absolutely beautiful and we both agreed that the villages/towns we have seen today are some of the most beautiful we have ever seen. As we walked into the town where we were staying we were amazed by the buildings and scenery. We later read that Estaing is one of France’s Most Beautiful Villages. Our hotel, Hotel Auberge Saint Fleuret, was right in the centre of the village so another perfect location.
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| Espalion and the Lot River |
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| Estaing, one of the most beautiful villages we have ever seen |
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| Just outside our hotel in Estaing |
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| The public swimming pool with the old historic town of Estaing overlooking it |
Day 10: Estaing to Fontailles (8km)
I guess today could be considered a bit of a rest day as we only had to walk 8km! We had a late breakfast and a coffee in town before setting off. The first part of the walk meandered along next to the river which was lovely and then we climbed quite a long but not too steep path to our accommodation at Fontailles.
We initially thought our accommodation was a bit strange Gite Soulenquo but it turned out to be a great experience with about 10 other walkers (all French). We all were served a lovely, home cooked meal with all local produce and wine. The host, Leo, was so hospitable and explained all the produce. A once in a life time experience really.
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| Communal dinner with the French travellers staying at the Gîte |
Day 11: Fontailles to Conques (26km)
While having dinner last night we were informed that our expected walk of 21km to Conques was, in fact, 29km. They advised us of an alternative route which would reduce it to 26km so we opted for the 26km route. The weather had cooled to a cloudy 20C which is perfect walking conditions and we experienced our first rain shower but it didn’t last long. The route was lovely (mostly quiet roads/paths) and the final descent into Conques must have lasted 5-6kms.
Conques is built on hillside and has classic narrow medieval streets which remain intact. It is officially one of France’s most beautiful villages. The Abbey Church of Sainte-Foy is the centre-piece of the village and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Our accommodation was beautiful and was located in the centre of the village La Conquise Bed and Breakfast
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| The walk leading into Conques |
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| The medieval streets of Conques |
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| Cobbles everywhere! |
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| Beautiful cobbled streets and medieval buildings of Conques |
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| View from our bedroom window over Conques |
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| The Abbey Church of Sainte-Foy |
Day 12: Conques to Decazeville (21km)
It was obvious from the scenery that the hike out of Conques was going to be hilly but i wasn’t quite expecting it to be as hard going as it actually was as it was a steep climb up rocks and dirt tracks and took us around an hour to climb to the top! After that it was a lovely walk with the path taking us across fields, villages, forests and dairy farms. We found a lovely spot for coffee and cake which was a nice surprise as most places close on a Monday on France.
Our accommodation in Decazeville was actually a Chateau out of town and we had to call the hosts to pick us up from the Cathedral. The host arrived in a Masaratti so an exciting trip to the Chateau. Our room was lovely and the facilities excellent.
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| Sprawling countryside and a few rain showers today |
Day 13: Decazeville to Montredon (11km) 
